Reclaimed Wood Flooring
Old-growth flooring salvaged from pre-war New Orleans buildings. Tighter grain, greater density, and more character than anything a modern mill can produce.
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A Floor With 100 Years of Character
There is a reason reclaimed flooring commands such loyalty among architects, designers, and homeowners: no new product comes close to replicating it. The wood we salvage from historic New Orleans buildings was milled from old-growth trees that germinated before the Louisiana Purchase. That timeline produced wood of extraordinary density, hardness, and visual complexity.
When you walk on a floor made from reclaimed heart pine, you are walking on wood with 20 to 40 growth rings per inch — three to five times denser than modern plantation pine. This density translates directly into dent resistance, dimensional stability, and a surface that only gets more beautiful with age.
Every plank in our reclaimed flooring inventory has been de-nailed using metal detection, kiln-dried to 6-8% moisture content, and milled to a precise tongue-and-groove profile on modern equipment. The result is authentic reclaimed character with the installation convenience of a modern flooring product.
Reclaimed vs. New Flooring
Flooring Species Available
Each species brings a distinct color, grain pattern, and performance profile. Contact us for samples so you can see and feel the wood before committing.
Longleaf Heart Pine
The gold standard of reclaimed flooring in the South. Longleaf heart pine has a Janka hardness of 1,225 — harder than red oak — and displays warm amber tones with dramatic grain figure. Growth rings so tight they blur together create a surface that is both visually striking and incredibly durable. Original longleaf pine forests are nearly gone, making reclaimed heart pine the only realistic source for this extraordinary wood.
Formal living spaces, dining rooms, master bedrooms, commercial hospitality
Bald Cypress
Louisiana's native cypress produces flooring with a distinctive grain pattern and a color palette ranging from pale straw to deep amber. Its natural cypressene oil content provides inherent resistance to moisture and insects — a meaningful advantage in New Orleans' humid climate. Cypress flooring salvaged from 19th-century buildings often features pecky markings (small holes from a fungus that attacked the living tree), which many designers consider a premium aesthetic feature.
Kitchens, bathrooms, sunrooms, historic renovations
White Oak
Reclaimed white oak flooring offers the classic look that has graced American homes for centuries. Its closed-grain structure resists moisture penetration better than red oak, and its warm golden-brown color works with virtually any interior palette. White oak accepts stain beautifully, making it the most versatile choice when you want to match a specific color.
Whole-house installations, transitional and modern interiors
Red Oak
Bolder grain pattern and a slightly reddish cast distinguish reclaimed red oak from its white cousin. Red oak is marginally softer (1,290 vs. 1,360 Janka) but still performs well in residential flooring. Reclaimed red oak from old factories and warehouses often has a deeper, richer color than freshly milled stock.
Traditional interiors, mid-century homes, rental properties
Mixed Hardwoods
A blend of species — oak, maple, ash, hickory, and others — milled to a uniform thickness and tongue-and-groove profile. Mixed-species floors create a dynamic, varied appearance that suits rustic, farmhouse, and industrial aesthetics. This is also our most cost-effective flooring option.
Rustic projects, lofts, studios, budget-conscious renovations
Plank Widths Available
We mill reclaimed flooring in widths ranging from traditional 3-inch strip to dramatic 12-inch wide plank. Standard thickness is 3/4 inch.
Traditional strip flooring. Provides a classic, formal look with tight plank lines. Common in historic homes built before 1920.
A versatile middle ground between strip and plank. Works well in both traditional and transitional interiors.
The most popular width for reclaimed flooring installations. Wide enough to showcase grain figure without overwhelming smaller rooms.
Wide plank. Makes a strong design statement and is ideal for large, open spaces. Requires wider source boards, so availability can vary.
Extra-wide plank. A premium product that demands premium source material. Limited availability — reserve early for large-format installations.
Finish Options
Choose unfinished for maximum control, or let us handle the finishing so your flooring arrives ready to nail down and enjoy.
Unfinished
Boards are milled to final profile but shipped without any surface coating. This allows your flooring contractor to sand, stain, and finish on-site for a perfectly uniform result. Site-finishing is the preferred method for professional installations because it seals the joints between boards.
Pre-Sanded
Boards arrive sanded to 120 grit, ready for stain and topcoat. This saves your installer the initial rough-sanding passes and speeds up the on-site finishing process. Best when you plan to apply your own stain color.
Pre-Finished (Oil)
A penetrating hardwax oil (such as Rubio Monocoat or Osmo) is applied in our facility. Oil finishes soak into the wood fiber rather than forming a film on top, producing a natural, low-sheen look. Individual boards are repairable without refinishing the entire floor.
Pre-Finished (Poly)
Three coats of water-based polyurethane are applied and cured in our controlled environment. This produces a hard, durable surface film in matte, satin, or semi-gloss sheen. Pre-finished poly floors install fast — no dust, no fumes, no drying time on site.
Skip-Planed (Character)
The planer takes one light pass across the face, removing about half the surface patina while leaving low spots untouched. The result is a textured, two-toned surface that shows both aged character and fresh wood grain. Extremely popular for farmhouse and industrial aesthetics.
Installation Tips for Reclaimed Flooring
Reclaimed flooring installs just like new hardwood, but a few extra considerations will ensure a flawless result.
Acclimate the Wood
Even though our flooring is kiln-dried, you should let it acclimate in your space for 5 to 7 days before installation. Stack the boards loosely with stickers (spacers) between layers in the room where they will be installed. This allows the wood to reach equilibrium with your home's temperature and humidity.
Check Your Subfloor
Reclaimed flooring performs best over a clean, dry, level subfloor. Moisture content of plywood or OSB subfloors should be below 12%. Concrete subfloors must be tested — a calcium chloride test reading above 3 lbs per 1,000 sq ft requires a moisture barrier. Address any squeaks, dips, or high spots before laying the first board.
Dry-Lay a Test Section
Reclaimed flooring has more natural variation in color and grain than new wood. Before nailing anything down, dry-lay several rows to preview the color mix and rearrange boards until the pattern feels balanced. Pull from multiple bundles to distribute color variation evenly across the floor.
Use the Right Fasteners
We recommend 2-inch 16-gauge cleats or staples for 3/4-inch solid flooring. Old-growth wood is dense — use a pneumatic nailer set to the appropriate pressure to avoid splitting. Pre-drill if face-nailing near board ends. See our hardware & accessories page for recommended fasteners.
Leave Expansion Gaps
Wood moves with seasonal humidity changes. Leave a 1/2-inch gap along all walls and fixed objects. This gap is hidden by baseboard and shoe molding. Do not fill the gap with caulk or adhesive.
Finish Promptly
If you chose unfinished flooring, sand and apply your first coat of finish within 24 to 48 hours of installation. Exposed bare wood absorbs moisture and dirt quickly. Apply at least three coats of polyurethane or two coats of penetrating oil, sanding lightly between coats.
Keeping Your Reclaimed Floor Beautiful
Daily & Weekly Care
- Sweep or vacuum regularly to remove grit that scratches the finish
- Use a damp (not wet) microfiber mop for routine cleaning
- Place felt pads under all furniture legs and replace them annually
- Use entry mats at all exterior doors to catch dirt and moisture
- Wipe up spills immediately — standing water damages any wood floor
Long-Term Maintenance
- Recoat polyurethane floors every 3 to 5 years (light sand + 1 coat)
- Refresh oil-finished floors annually with a maintenance coat of hardwax oil
- Maintain indoor humidity between 35% and 55% to minimize seasonal movement
- Close blinds or use UV-filtering window film to slow sun-induced color change
- Full sand-and-refinish is typically needed only every 15 to 25 years
Janka Hardness Ratings by Species
The Janka test measures the force required to embed a steel ball halfway into the wood surface. Higher numbers mean greater resistance to denting, scratching, and wear — critical factors for flooring that will see daily foot traffic.
| Species | Janka Rating (lbf) | Dent Resistance | Color / Appearance | Best Application |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Maple | 1,450 | Excellent | Pale cream to light amber. Clean, uniform grain with occasional bird's-eye figure. | High-traffic commercial, gyms, dance studios, modern interiors |
| White Oak | 1,360 | Excellent | Warm golden-brown with cathedral grain. Accepts stain beautifully and evenly. | Whole-house installs, traditional and contemporary styles |
| Red Oak | 1,290 | Very Good | Pinkish-red undertones with bold, open grain. The classic American hardwood floor. | Living rooms, bedrooms, hallways, traditional homes |
| Heart Pine | 1,225 | Very Good | Rich amber to deep reddish-orange. Tight growth rings create dramatic figure. | Formal living spaces, dining rooms, historic renovations |
| Douglas Fir | 660 | Moderate | Warm reddish-tan with pronounced straight grain. Softwood with strong character. | Bedrooms, low-traffic areas, rustic cabins, second floors |
| Cypress | 510 | Low-Moderate | Light honey to pale straw. Distinctive grain with occasional pecky markings. | Kitchens (sealed), bathrooms, sunrooms, coastal homes |
Janka ratings shown are for reclaimed (old-growth) specimens. Reclaimed heart pine and cypress test significantly harder than their modern plantation-grown equivalents due to denser grain structure.
How to Install Reclaimed Flooring
Three primary methods exist for installing solid hardwood flooring. Each has advantages depending on your subfloor type, project constraints, and budget.
Nail-Down (Cleat)
The gold standard for 3/4-inch solid reclaimed flooring over plywood or OSB subfloors. A pneumatic flooring nailer drives 16-gauge L-cleats or staples through the tongue at a 45-degree angle, blind-nailing each board. The result is a secure, tight floor with no visible fasteners.
Advantages
- Strongest holding power in dense old-growth wood
- Industry-standard method — any flooring installer can do it
- Allows for seasonal wood movement
- Easiest to repair or replace individual boards later
Drawbacks
- −Requires plywood or OSB subfloor (not concrete)
- −Pneumatic nailer can split very thin or narrow boards
- −Pre-drilling may be needed near board ends
Plywood or OSB (minimum 3/4" thick)
Glue-Down
Boards are adhered directly to the subfloor using a moisture-cure urethane adhesive. This method works over concrete slabs where nailing is not possible. It also creates a very rigid, quiet floor with minimal bounce. Glue-down is common in slab-on-grade Louisiana homes and commercial installations.
Advantages
- Works over concrete slabs and radiant heat systems
- Creates an extremely rigid, squeak-free floor
- Reduces hollow sound underfoot
- Good for wide-plank installations that benefit from extra hold
Drawbacks
- −Adhesive adds cost ($1.50-3.00/sq ft for material)
- −Harder to replace individual damaged boards
- −Subfloor must be perfectly flat (within 3/16" over 10 ft)
- −Requires moisture testing on concrete — no exceptions
Concrete slab, plywood, or gypcrete
Floating
Boards click or lock together without attachment to the subfloor, resting on a foam underlayment. While popular for engineered flooring, we generally do not recommend floating installation for solid reclaimed flooring. Reclaimed 3/4-inch solid boards are too heavy, too variable, and too stiff for a reliable floating installation.
Advantages
- Fastest installation method
- Easy to remove or replace later
- Works over most subfloor types
- No adhesive or nail holes in the wood
Drawbacks
- −Not suitable for 3/4" solid reclaimed boards
- −Hollow sound underfoot without modification
- −Boards can shift and gap over time
- −Not recommended for wide planks (5"+)
Any flat surface (but not ideal for reclaimed solid)
Before You Buy Reclaimed Flooring
Reclaimed flooring delivers extraordinary results when the project is properly planned. Work through this checklist before placing your order to ensure a smooth installation.
Test Your Subfloor Moisture
For concrete slabs, perform a calcium chloride test (must read below 3 lbs/1,000 sq ft) or a relative humidity test (must read below 75% RH). For plywood, use a pin-type moisture meter — readings should be below 12%. High subfloor moisture will cause cupping, buckling, and finish failure.
Prepare the Subfloor Surface
The subfloor must be flat within 3/16 inch over a 10-foot span. Grind down high spots and fill low spots with leveling compound. Remove all debris, old adhesive, and protruding fasteners. A clean, flat subfloor is the single most important factor in a successful installation.
Plan for Acclimation
Allow 5-7 days for the flooring to acclimate in the room where it will be installed. Stack boards loosely with spacers (stickers) between layers for air circulation. Run HVAC at normal living conditions during this period. Skipping acclimation is the most common cause of post-installation problems.
Verify Width Consistency
Reclaimed flooring may have slight width variation board to board, especially in wider planks. Check a representative sample of boards with a caliper. Variation of 1/32 inch is normal and will not cause problems. Greater variation may require sorting or additional milling.
Inspect for Hidden Metal
Even after professional de-nailing, small metal fragments can remain in reclaimed boards. Run a handheld metal detector over every board before installation. A hidden nail or screw can destroy a flooring nailer bit or a table-saw blade — and poses a safety hazard.
Calculate Waste Factor
Order 10-15% more than your measured square footage to account for cutting waste, defective boards, and color sorting. Reclaimed flooring has more natural variation than new material, so some boards may not make the cut. Under-ordering leads to costly delays.
Choose Your Finish Strategy
Decide before you buy whether you want unfinished (site-finished) or pre-finished flooring. Site-finishing gives you full control over color and sheen and seals the joints between boards. Pre-finished flooring installs faster with no dust or fumes. Both approaches deliver excellent results.
Plan Transitions & Trim
Measure doorways, stairways, and transitions to other flooring types. You will need T-moldings, reducers, stair nosing, and thresholds that match your reclaimed floor. We can mill custom transition pieces from the same reclaimed stock to ensure a perfect color and grain match.
Consider Radiant Heat Compatibility
Reclaimed solid hardwood can be installed over radiant heat systems if the surface temperature stays below 85 degrees F. Glue-down installation is preferred over nail-down for radiant systems. Narrow planks (3-4 inches) perform better than wide planks because they experience less per-board expansion.
Get a Professional Moisture Reading on Delivery
When your flooring arrives, check the moisture content of a representative sample with a pin-type meter. Boards should read between 6% and 9% for most interior installations. If readings are significantly higher, extend the acclimation period before installing.
Order Samples Before You Commit
We are happy to send sample boards so you can see the grain, color, and texture in your own space. Contact us with the species and width you are considering.