Wood Care & Maintenance Guide

Reclaimed wood requires a gentler approach than new lumber. Start by removing loose dust and debris with a soft-bristle brush or vacuum with a brush attachment. For deeper cleaning, mix a solution of one part white vinegar to ten parts warm water and apply with a barely damp cloth, wiping in the direction of the grain. Never saturate reclaimed wood with water, as it can reactivate old tannins and cause blotching.

For stubborn grime on heavily weathered surfaces, a solution of one tablespoon of Murphy's Oil Soap per gallon of warm water works well. Apply sparingly and dry the surface promptly. Avoid bleach-based cleaners, ammonia, and abrasive scrubbing pads, which can damage the aged patina that makes reclaimed wood valuable. If you need to remove old paint or finish, use a chemical stripper rated for the specific finish type rather than sanding, which destroys the character of the surface.

All reclaimed lumber from Lumber New Orleans is kiln-dried to a core temperature of at least 133 degrees Fahrenheit for a minimum of 30 minutes, which kills all active insects, larvae, and eggs. However, once installed, wood can become vulnerable to new infestations if conditions allow.

The primary threats in the Gulf South region are Formosan subterranean termites, drywood termites, and powderpost beetles. Prevention strategies include maintaining a physical barrier between wood and soil (minimum 6 inches), ensuring proper drainage away from foundations, treating soil around the structure with a termiticide, and applying borate-based wood preservatives to any unfinished or concealed wood surfaces. Borate treatments such as Bora-Care or Tim-bor penetrate the wood and provide long-term protection without toxic off-gassing. For existing infestations, consult a licensed pest control professional -- localized treatments are far more effective and less disruptive than whole-structure fumigation in most cases.

The right finish depends on the intended use, the species, and whether the wood is indoors or outdoors. For interior reclaimed wood where you want to preserve the natural aged character, a penetrating oil finish such as Rubio Monocoat, OSMO Polyx-Oil, or Danish oil is ideal. These finishes soak into the wood rather than forming a film on top, allowing the texture and patina to show through while providing stain and moisture resistance.

For floors and high-wear surfaces, a water-based polyurethane in satin or matte finish provides the most durable protection while minimizing yellowing over time. Apply in thin coats with light sanding (220-grit) between coats, building up to three or four coats for optimal protection. Oil-based polyurethanes offer slightly better scratch resistance but will amber over time, which may or may not be desirable.

For exterior applications, a penetrating oil stain with UV inhibitors and mildewcide provides the best combination of protection and appearance. Film-forming finishes like exterior varnish will eventually peel and require complete removal, while penetrating stains simply wear away and can be recoated without stripping.

Indoor wood maintenance focuses primarily on preserving appearance and preventing damage from daily use. The main enemies indoors are scratches from grit on shoes, water damage from spills, and fading from direct sunlight through windows. Use felt pads under furniture legs, place mats at entrances to catch grit, and use window treatments to limit direct UV exposure on valuable wood surfaces.

Outdoor wood faces far more aggressive conditions: UV radiation, rain, humidity cycling, mold, mildew, and insect exposure. The maintenance cycle for outdoor wood is necessarily more frequent and intensive. Deck surfaces should be cleaned and re-sealed annually in the New Orleans climate. Vertical surfaces like siding and fences can go two to three years between re-treatments if a quality penetrating stain is used. Structural elements like beams and posts should be inspected annually for any signs of decay, particularly at connections where water can accumulate.

Water stains on finished wood can often be removed by applying a paste of equal parts baking soda and non-gel toothpaste, rubbing gently with the grain, and wiping clean. For deeper water marks that have penetrated the finish, try placing a clean cloth over the stain and pressing briefly with a warm iron -- the heat draws the moisture out. On unfinished reclaimed wood, oxalic acid (wood bleach) is the most effective treatment for water stains and iron stains, which appear as dark black marks where metal contacted wet wood.

Grease and oil stains respond to a poultice of cornstarch or talcum powder left on the stain overnight to absorb the oil. For ink stains, denatured alcohol applied with a cotton swab usually works. Always test any cleaning solution in an inconspicuous area first. For valuable reclaimed wood pieces, consult a professional wood finisher before attempting to remove difficult stains, as aggressive treatments can cause more damage than the original stain.

Minor surface scratches on finished wood can be concealed with a matching wood stain marker or wax fill stick, available at any hardware store in dozens of color-matched shades. For slightly deeper scratches that have penetrated the finish but not the wood itself, apply a thin coat of matching finish with a fine artist's brush and blend the edges with 0000 steel wool once dry.

Deeper dents in solid wood can sometimes be raised using steam. Place a damp cloth over the dent and press briefly with a hot iron. The steam causes the crushed wood fibers to swell back to their original position. This works best on unfinished or oil-finished wood and may damage film finishes. For gouges that have removed wood fiber, use a color-matched wood filler, let it dry completely, sand flush with 220-grit paper, and re-apply finish to match the surrounding area.

Wood is hygroscopic, meaning it continually absorbs and releases moisture in response to the surrounding air. In the New Orleans climate, where relative humidity regularly exceeds 80 percent outdoors, controlling indoor humidity is critical for maintaining wood stability. The ideal indoor relative humidity range for wood is 35 to 55 percent.

When humidity is too high, wood expands, which can cause flooring to buckle, doors to stick, and joints to swell. When humidity drops too low (common during winter heating season), wood shrinks, leading to gaps between floorboards, cracking, and joint failure. A whole-house humidification and dehumidification system is the best solution. At minimum, run a dehumidifier during the summer months and a humidifier during winter to keep conditions within the target range. Monitor conditions with an inexpensive digital hygrometer placed away from HVAC vents.

Ultraviolet radiation is the primary cause of wood color change over time. Most species darken with UV exposure (cherry and pine are notable examples), while some lighten (walnut). UV also degrades lignin, the natural polymer that binds wood fibers, causing surface erosion and graying on unprotected exterior wood.

For interior applications, UV-filtering window films block up to 99 percent of harmful UV rays and are nearly invisible. UV-protective finishes containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide absorb UV radiation before it reaches the wood. For exterior wood, pigmented stains provide far better UV protection than clear finishes because the pigment particles physically block light. Transparent exterior finishes typically last only one to two years before UV degradation requires re-coating, while semi-transparent stains can last three to five years and solid stains even longer.

The New Orleans climate presents unique challenges for wood maintenance. Spring brings heavy rain and rising humidity -- inspect all exterior wood for winter damage, clean mildew that developed during cool wet months, and prepare surfaces for re-sealing before summer heat arrives. Early spring is the ideal time to apply exterior finishes because temperatures are moderate and rain is intermittent.

Summer in Louisiana means extreme heat, intense UV, and near-constant high humidity. Interior dehumidification is essential. Avoid applying finishes to exterior wood in direct summer sun, as rapid drying causes poor adhesion and bubbling. Fall is the prime time for deep cleaning exterior wood and applying protective treatments before winter. Inspect for termite activity, which peaks in warm months. Winter is relatively mild but brings occasional freezing temperatures that can cause checking in wood with high moisture content. Ensure all exterior wood is properly sealed before the first freeze.